A walk through the quarries on Coniston Old Man.

Pick a Day. Any Day will do, although a weekday from March through to November would be preferable. You need daylight to get the best views. Drive to the village of Coniston, turn up the hill, past the Sun Inn, where Donald Campbell enjoyed his last pint, and keep going. It is a narrow road, especially so after the last junction, the one that leads to the old station yard. (Yes, for those that don't know, there used to be a railway at Coniston, and it is linked to where we are heading).

A quarter of a mile up the hill you come to a gate, and beyond it the most informal car park in the Lake District. An old quarry, with a level surface, serves as the semi official car park, marked on OS maps and used for many years, but there are not many spaces and if you don't get there early then all will be taken, especially at weekends. If that happens you will have to do what the majority of people do and park beside the track that leads away from the gate and over the fellside. In fact, regular visitors sometimes ignore empty spaces in the car park and head up the track anyway, bagging their favourite spot before it is snatched.

The track has an official title; Walna Scar Road. It runs along the side of the Old Man of Coniston, over Walna Scar, and down into the Duddon Valley. Nowadays it is the start point for one of the most popular walks in the Lake District, but long before fell walkers came to the district the tracks hereabouts were used for very different purposes. Coniston, you see, was not a tourist village. In days past it's fortunes were very much linked to what was underneath the mountains as opposed to what was on the surface. 150 years ago, the boots marching up the fellside belonged not to fell walkers, but to the working men, women and children of Coniston.

Miners and quarry workers made their way up the fell on a daily basis. Not just men, but until the late Victorian period women and children as well. At one point over 600 people were employed on these fells on a daily basis. Copper ore and slate were their goal, and had been for the previous 300 years. Exactly when copper mining started in these hills is not known, however, it is fairly certain that by the 1560's German miners, brought to England by Elizabeth I, had uncovered rich veins of ore. By the mid 1800's the mines were thriving.

One problem had always been shipping the ore out of the area. Coniston has never been an easy place to get to by road, and moving the heavy loads out was fraught with difficulty. A wagon down to the lake shore, a barge to the southern end, then another wagon to get the ore to the coast. That is a lot of loading and unloading. Until the Railway came in 1858, that is. 4 years later, the line was extended to the copper mines, such was the amount of Ore that was being hewn from these hills.

However, the link between the railway and the mines did not last long. Shortly after the Coniston line was extended to the quarries, the price of Copper began to drop. Production declined, and some of the deepest shafts were allowed to flood as continually pumping the water out was a costly business. By the turn of the 20th century, the mines were all but finished. They continued until the start of the first world war in 1914, and then production ceased. Limited workings were re-commenced after the war, but there was little profit to be made, and mining ceased permanently in 1940. 

The railway, copper mines and quarries may be no more, but their remains throughout the whole of  this region are extensive, stretching from the workings on the side of Coniston Old Man to the slate quarries of Little Langdale. Key areas are Tilberthwaite and Hodge Close, Cathedral Cave, close to Slater's Bridge, workings on the Little Langdale side of Lingmoor, and Greenburn Mine, situated at the head of the Little Langdale Valley. For those with a keen interest in industrial archaeology it is a wonderful region to explore. However, if, like me, you are simply interested in the relics of a bygone era, there is still plenty to spark your interest on the climb to the summit of Coniston Old Man, which, with so much of interest on the ascent, is a wonderful walk at any time of year.

The well preserved remains of workman's huts and a latrine, almost 1,000 feet above the village of Coniston, on the wide track up to the summit of Coniston Old Man

A little further up from the first picture, and more well preserved buildings are passed. In the past few years a certain amount of work has been carried out here to ensure that the buildings remain as safe as possible, however, exploration is certainly at your own risk.

Within a short space of time, this third set of buildings is passed. As can be seen, there is much interest in them from passing walkers.

High walls and thick steel girders that are well over 100 years old are a key feature as we approach a fourth level of quarry buildings

With high numbers of walkers passing through this area, the path has been restored to how it may have looked 100 years ago.

This building may have gone, but the doorway remains.

A sign urging fellwalkers to respect the integrity of the site and not remove artifacts.

One of the iron artifacts that the sign in the above picture was attempting to protect, a set of railway points over 1,500ft up the side of the mountain. The trackway was an important part of the site, and existed well before the railway from Broughton to Coniston was built. This particular set of points probably dates from the middle part of the 19th century.

The remains of heavy lifting gear, situated close to the set of points in the previous picture. It was part of the winding gear for the railway. There were no locomotives, the trucks being moved by a mixture of winches and gravity.

Low Water, which is situated above the quarries and mines, some 1,000 feet below the summit of Coniston Old Man. It is a natural tarn, but at some point was dammed to raise the water level in order to provide power and a water supply for the quarries below. After the quarries closed the dam was removed. A little further north is Levers Water, a larger tarn which was also dammed to provide water for the quarries and also Coniston, some 1500 feet below. Unlike Low Water, Levers Water has retained its dam.

 

Looking down on Low Water from the well used track up to the summit of Coniston Old Man. We've left the quarry workings behind now, as we head for the summit another 500 feet above. However, it is the case that many people who start out from the Walna Scar Road never reach this far. Their interest is not in reaching the fell top, but in exploring the quarry and mine working remains, which are amongst the best preserved in the North of England. 

Steaming through the Valleys

A long awaited event happens this weekend. Well, I say long awaited, actually, it is 4 months, in the broad expanse of time not very long at all, but 4 months is long enough if, like me, you are a big fan.

This event happens every year. For those of us that live close by, it heralds the end of winter, and the start of the new season. It coincides with longer days, woodland flowers, and Easter.

If you happen to be in the vicinity not only will you be able to see it, but you'll also smell and hear it. For many it will be a joy to behold, for others it brings back memories of a simpler time, when phones were fixed to a socket on the wall and definitely not smart, and Internet was something a Yorkshire fisherman said to his mate upon landing a trout.

Yes folks, Steam is back on the Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway. Like a trusty old friend returned from a long winter break, 'blood and custard' coloured carriages will carry folk three miles down the Leven Valley from Haverthwaite to Lakeside, behind a steam engine. The sight of that glorious train ambling along at little more than walking pace, it's steam drifting lazily into the Lakeland air, is one of the joys of this part of Lakeland.

Fairburn tank no 42073 hauls a train of 5 'blood and custard' coloured coaches towards Newby Bridge Halt. This photograph is copyright of the Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway.

It joins it's illustrious neighbour up the coast, L'ile Ratty, or to give it a name befitting of Sunday Best, The Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway. Those wonderful little 15 inch gauge engines have been chugging sedately into Eskdale for the past month, and the line dates back to the 1870's. It was originally 3ft gauge,  but following closure was converted to 15inch gauge in 1915.

River Irt, the oldest working 15 inch gauge locomotive in the world, on the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway

Tomorrow, April 1st 2017, (and this is no April Fools joke by the way) a third iconic steam passenger transport vehicle, one also built by the Furness Railway company and still in full service, also begins a season of operation. The Steam Yacht Gondola, which is reputed to be the oldest steam driven passenger vessel in the world, sails tomorrow, weather permitting, from the pier at Coniston. Another joyous site to behold.

Gondola's story begins in 1849. Having noted how successful the Kendal and Windermere Railway had been at bringing visitors to Windermere, the directors of the Furness Railway decided that the answer to Coniston's transport problems was to build a railway joining the main Barrow to Whitehaven line with Coniston, and at the same time launch a passenger cruise service on Coniston Water. 

The Railway opened in 1859, and steam yacht "Gondola" was launched in November of the same year, entering service for the following summer season. It became an immediate success, so much so that by the turn of the century a second boat was required. "The Lady of the Lake" entered service in 1907. She was sightly longer and carried more than twice the number of passengers than Gondola. She ran until the second world war, when she was taken out of service, never to return. She was scrapped in 1950.

Gondola had been taken out of service in 1936, and the cost of returning her to service in 1945 was considered prohibitive. She was sold and then converted to a houseboat. Little structural work was carried out on her, and by 1960 she had been abandoned and was little more than a derelict hulk, moored at the southern end of the lake. During a violent storm she broke free from her mooring, drifted into a reed bed, and sank. Luckily, the water was not deep, so she did not disappear from view.  

For the next ten years her half submerged remains were a curious landmark to those passing by. 

Salvaging and rebuilding her was no mean feat. Funds had to be raised in order to carry out a feasibility study, and it was found that although the hull and engine were not salvageable, much of the remainder of the vessel was. A second round of fund raising was undertaken in order to have a new hull built, an engine commissioned and the remainder of the boat restored back to it's former glory.

In March 1980, the fully restored "Gondola" was launched by Sheila Howell, granddaughter of Felix Hamill, her first master back in 1859. After final trials she finally entered service for the second time in the summer of 1980. And she's been steaming gracefully ever since.

For more information about the Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway, click here

For more information about the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway, click here

For more information about Gondola, click here

A late winter wander around lovely Loweswater

At just a mile long, and half a mile wide, Loweswater is one of Lakeland's smallest lakes. I also happen to think it is one of the loveliest. I well remember the first time I set eyes on it. It was during a family holiday in 1970. It was our first visit, and we were touring the area in the family minibus. Having visited Buttermere and been entranced by it's beauty, we took the road to the coast, where we were staying. Crummock Water passed by the window, resplendent with it's backdrop of mountains, the names of which I had yet to discover, and once the end of the lake was reached I settled back to enjoy the the rest of the journey, thinking that there were no more lakes to see that day.  When Loweswater suddenly appeared to our left, it was a such a delightful surprise that I demanded we stop and have a look around. My plea fell on deaf ears. The rest of the family had decided that we had seen quite enough lakes for one day, so we drove on by, and all I could do was promise myself to return one day to fully investigate it's charms.

It was three years before I was able to fulfil that promise, and I think that my opinion of this lovely little lake was truly formed on that day. The weather was perfect, a deep blue sky, complete with little white cotton wool clouds drifting lazily along on a gentle breeze. I clambered up the lush green pastures of  Darling Fell, to the north of the lake, looked down on it's clear blue waters, and decided that this was probably one of the most perfect places in the world. It was so peaceful, so far removed from the hustle and bustle of the world, that it was imbued with a level of tranquillity that was rare even in the Lake District. Yes, that day I fell in love with Loweswater. I've been besotted with her ever since.

Loweswater is less frequently visited than other lakes, mainly, I think, because it is small and a little off the beaten track. Close by are the ever popular lakes of Buttermere and Crummock Water. They are the City and United of the Lakes, surrounded by impressive mountains, with a huge fanbase, and visitors galore. The village of Buttermere, situated between the two, has more car parking spaces than residents. By comparison Loweswater is very much a local league lake, flanked by fells that even Wainwright could not get enthusiastic about, and apparently not worthy of a pay and display with information board. Yet that is one of it's greatest attractions.  There is a round the lake footpath, which because it features virtually no hilly bits at all, is suitable for the very youngest fell walker. Holme Wood, on the lake's southern shore has both red deer and red squirrels. They can be elusive, but the beautiful Holme Force, a wonderful little waterfall set amongst the trees, is easier to find if you know where to look. There is no need to scramble up the hillside to reach it, a nice wide path leads right to it, but as there is no sign it is easy to miss the turning to it.

On previous visits I have enjoyed the charms of this wonderful lake in many ways, and for my latest visit in mid March, I decided to stay on the south side, walking along the shore through Holme Woods, before heading up the fellside to High Nook Tarn, and then following the footpath along the side of Burnbank Fell to the western end of the Lake. The day was completed by re-tracing my steps a quarter of a mile to enter the woods via a small gate leading to a narrow path that eventually meets a wider forest track. A short distance along this track the delightful Holme Force provides a pleasing end to the walk.

What passes for parking at Loweswater. A large lay-by, one of two beside the minor road, and the small car park at Maggies Bridge, at the Crummock Water end of the Lake, are all there is, and I'm told that there is almost always a space or two available.

This is the only hill on the round lake walk. It leads up to Hudson Place, a small farm. It is not very steep or far, but has this wonderful roadside display of daffodils in mid March.

Beyond Hudson Place the track swings left to drop down towards the Lake Shore, with wonderful views down the lake.

Half way along the Lake Shore and this bothy appears. Owned by the National Trust, it is available for hire.

The small beach outside the bothy has wonderful views across the Lake to Darling Fell and Low Fell. It also has full recreational facilities for those long summer evenings, in the form of a swing.

Looking across Loweswater to the unmistakable profile of Grasmoor, which overlooks Crummock Water.

At the other end of the Lake the track leads to Maggies Bridge, where there is a small car park, a signpost, and a lot of mud!

From Maggies Bridge the farm track leads up to High Nook Farm, and beyond, the open fellside. To the right of the path is High Nook Beck, a lovely little stream running down the fellside towards the Lake. It joins the outflow of the Lake just below Maggies Bridge, and becomes the River Cocker, which eventually joins the River Derwent at Cockermouth.

Looking back across the fellside from the path beside the beck. Grasmoor is prominent, and Crummock Water can also be seen.

High Nook Tarn, a lovely little water which drains into High Nook Beck. My walk does not pass by the tarn, but it is in clear view and a narrow footpath, boggy in winter, leads up to it.

The path swings right, crossing High Nook Beck by a narrow bridge, then climbs the flank of Burnbank Fell.

A little further on and despite gaining height, the trees of Holme Wood start to conceal the view.

The highest portion of this path, and also the highest point of the walk, is also the most disappointing. The view is totally hidden by trees, with the flanks of Burnbank fell blocking the view in the other direction. There is about half a mile of this lack of scenery to endure.

The other end of Holme Wood and the trees are left behind. The view appears, and it is worth waiting for.

The head of the lake. This end is closest to the coast, and conventional thinking dictates that the small stream there will flow away from the lake towards the sea, but it doesn't. Loweswater is unique in that the water from the lake flows towards the centre of the Lake District as opposed to away from it. Crummock Water is lower than Loweswater, and the water from Loweswater flows into Crummock.

Backtracking is something I'm not keen on, but on this walk there is far greater reward in going back for a quarter of a mile rather than carrying on along the path that skirts Burnbank Fell. On the way back Holme Beck is crossed for the second time. This is the view looking downstream as it heads down the slope towards the lake. I shall meet it again shortly.

I've turned left into the woods and followed a narrow track down to a junction with a much wider track, then turned left, to follow the wide track down the slope, athletically hurdling this fallen tree on the way, as you do.

It is not long before this beautiful little waterfall appears on the left. Before getting to it there is little indication of it's existence. It is the aforementioned Holme Beck, cascading down through the woodland. The falls are called Holme Force.

The lower pool of Holme Force. It is not big, but it is beautiful, and a real treat to enjoy towards the end of the walk.

Getting to Holme Force from the main track through the woods is not easy. The track it is on, although wide, runs higher up in the woodland, and not used regularly. To add to the navigation problems, there is no sign to the falls. These two trees are all that mark the start of the path from the main track through the forest.

A fine view to end the day. The car is about 250 yards away, and the sun has come out. It is been a super walk, in weather that was better than forecast.