Don't let the train take the strain!

At the southern tip of Windermere (the lake), is Lakeside, a small hamlet of scattered houses, a large hotel and the terminus of both Windermere Lake Cruises, and the Lakeside and Haverthwaite Railway. The railway runs for three miles, from Lakeside to Haverthwaite, a small village situated close to the main A590 road that links the M6 motorway with the industrial towns of Ulverston and Barrrow in Furness. 

The route of the A590 is a modern one. In days past it not only ran through the village of Haverthwaite, but also crossed the river Leven by a narrow bridge close to what is now the Whitewater Hotel, in the village of Backbarrow. To the 21stC motorist, being able to avoid the queue inducing bridge is a bonus, especially as, at first glance, the village of Backbarrow has little to offer the visitor. But, as we shall see later, Backbarrow is not all it seems, especially if you have an interest in history and industrial archeology.

For most visitors, the cruise down the lake from Bowness or Ambleside, followed by a ride on the short, but very pleasant railway to Haverthwaite, is an enjoyable day out. However, aside from a visit to the small engine shed, a quick snack in the cafe, a browse around the tiny gift shop and, if you have children, a visit to the small kiddies playground, there is little to do at Haverthwaite. Consequently, those passengers that start their journey at Lakeside have a tendency to get the next train out of town, and head back the way they came.

One alternative to catching the train both ways is to walk one way, preferably the outer route from Lakeside to Haverthwaite, then return to Lakeside by train. The walk is just four miles by the route outlined below, and on a fine day is utterly delightful. Although not totally flat, there are no big hills to climb. The route follows a specially made off road footpath for the first mile and a half, before taking to a minor road for the remainder of the walk. You'll never be too far from the railway, and will pass through a parkland style setting on the early part of the walk. Once beyond the hamlet of Newby Bridge, the minor road runs through pleasant woodland before dropping down to the village of Backbarrow, a small riverside village that is not as it first appears.

The walk starts at the ferry pier. Walk away from the lake and turn left to walk past the Aquarium and on to the far end of the car park,

At the end of the car park there is a gate leading to a footpath that runs to the right of the railway line.

Simply follow the path for the next mile, enjoying the views as you go.

You'll know when you are approaching Newby Bridge, as a footbridge crosses the railway. 

Having arrived at Newby Bridge, the path follows the road that runs along the front of the Swan Hotel.

At the junction, cross the road to take the minor road that continues alongside the river, with the railway to your right. 

 

Pass by Newby Bridge Station, and continue along the minor road to cross the rail bridge.

At first there are views to the left, out across the Leven Valley, with the railway following the course of the river. Beyond that, running behind the trees in mid picture, is the main A590 dual carriageway. The Leven Valley is only 6 miles from Windermere to the sea. Nowadays there is little industry in the valley, but in days past it was a hive of activity, as we will see later. 

 

The minor road runs gently uphill for just under a mile. Privately owned woodland obscurs any views of the valley, however, on a nice sunny afternoon it is not unpleasant as the road tends not to be very busy.

The highest point of the walk is this junction, where you need to turn left, following the cycleway sign to Haverthwaite.

Shortly after is another junction, where again, you need to turn left. It is downhill all the way now to the village of Backbarrow.

The woodland you are walking through used to be coppiced. The trees were cut down to allow new shoots to grow from their base. About once every seven years the new shoots would be cut away and used to make charcoal, a substance that was in high demand during the past century. It was used in the iron and steel making industries, as well as for making gunpowder.

On the right hand side of the road there are several areas where rock has been taken for use in building work. Over the years, these mini quarries have been reclaimed by nature, and make a pleasing feature as you continue down the hill.

After almost three quarters of a mile of descent, you reach the bottom of the hill, and a rail bridge. Note that the track here used to be double, the bridge abuttments for the track that is no longer in place still exist, but the overbridge part has been removed.

If your timing is right, you may just catch a glimpse of a passing train!

It is a short distance from the railway bridge to the houses on the edge of the village of Backbarrow. The railway line can be seen running centre of picture.

After another quarter of a mile, the road runs alongside the river. Three things to note here, first the drainage pipes from the garden running through the wall, second the new houses on the other side, and third, in the distance on the right hand side of the river, a low brown building that is part of the Lakeland Motor Museum. The museum was built in an old cooperage. It made barrels for the mills and dolly blue works, of which more in a moment. Later it became the packaging department of the Dolly Blue works.

 

A little further down, the river narrows and runs under a stone bridge. The buildings on the other side were formerly the aforementioned Dolly Blue works. Originally known as the Lancashire Ultramarine works, the mill opened in the late Victorian period and for 90 years manufactured the little tablets of blue dye that most housewives in the early and middle part of the 20th century put into their clothes wash to make the white things appear white, and not yellow. It wasn't a bleach, but a colouring, and those of us of a certain age can well remember it being widely for sale in shops. 

 

The old Dolly Blue works is now the Whitewater hotel. Some public areas of the hotel still display items signifying the history of the site.  The mill closed in 1981.

The power of the water going under the bridge can be sensed in this shot. The River Leven drains Windermere, so when the Lake District has heavy rain, about a quarter of all the water that falls from the sky ends up going under this bridge. In 2005, 2009, and again in 2015, the village was flooded and in both 2009 and 2015 the bridge was severely damaged and the hotel flooded. Also, the A590 used to run over this bridge. The new section of road by-passing the village was built in the 1960's in order to ease traffic congestion. 

 

Don't cross the bridge, but turn right and follow the left hand pavement, which is actually a painted line on the road, for a short distance to reach the remains of Backbarrow Ironworks. The first sign of their existence are the 'paddles' at the sluice gates used by the works to control the flow of water. They are in remarkably good condition.

A little further on, a display board beside the road offers plenty of information about the site. 

 

It is not a big site, and work is currently being undertaken to tidy it up as it has stood idle and derelict since the works closed in 1966. According to the web site associated with the site, the iron made here was of very high quality, which enabled it to compete with much bigger sites. Singer sewing machines were made with high quality iron from Backbarrow, so if you have an old one you own a bit of Lake District history.

The telegraph pole from the railway can quite clearly be seen in the gap between the houses, some of which are social housing, and others privately owned. The village also has a junior school, and a doctors surgery, but no shop.

Close to the end of the walk, and Haverthwaite station. The minor road through the village meets the modern, and usually very busy A590 road here. There is no need to cross the road to reach the station.  To the left of the hedge is a little footpath, which avoids the need to walk along the grass verge!

100 yards further on, to the left, the busy road, on the right is the car park for Haverthwaite railway station.

Depending on your timing, you may have time to visit the delights of the station. It has a small cafe, an engine shed, a small book and gift shop, plus a kiddies playground set amongst the trees. Note that if you arrive at Haverthwaite after the last train has departed you can catch a number six bus back to Windermere from a stop close to Haverthwaite station. This is often a double decker, and a top deck seat on the journey along the A592 from Newby Bridge to Windermere is a very enjoyable experience, especially if  you sit on the left hand side of the bus. 

However, nothing beats the train ride back to Lakeside.

 

Alcock Tarn, or 'A fellwalkers guide to Victorian plumbing'

June 2016. A near perfect day weather wise, and as it turned out the ideal day for shooting a video of the walk from Grasmere up to Alcock Tarn. The views are so good on this walk that a clear day with sunshine and fluffy white clouds is essential.  But this shoot has an added bonus. I have a couple of production assistants (first class, unpaid) to help me out. My good friend Nicola and her son Michael. Nicola is a bright and busy single mum who loves to get out on the Lake District fells whenever she can. Michael has a very enquiring mind, and is developing an interest in history, as well as all things artistic, including videography. It was a chance for them to experience a very different day on the fells, and to also see what goes on behind the scenes on one of my video shoots.

Alcock Tarn

 Alcock Tarn is on the western side of Heron Pike, overlooking Grasmere. On the face of it it's a nice walk through the woods and then up the fell side to a pretty little mountain tarn. But things are not all they seem. This is not just a scenic walk, and believe me, it is very scenic, it is also a stroll through the world of Victorian plumbing, and one of the very best examples of hidden history in the Lake District. So it makes not only the perfect subject for a ten minute video, but also was ideal for a fell walking enthusiast and her history loving son.  This is the story of our day. The pictures are low resolution stills from the finished video. If you want to see that, scroll down to the bottom.

St Oswald's Church Grasmere

We started from the church in Grasmere, close to Wordsworth's Grave, and headed out towards his old house at Dove Cottage. Once there we headed up the old road towards White Moss Common before turning left to follow the path up to Brackenfell Woods. Up to that point the walk had been at a normal pace, with a couple of short stops to take establishing shots. We soon reached the seat just before the entrance to the woods, and the first major stop for filming, a piece to camera about the plush 18th and 19th century villas visible on the other side of Grasmere. It was at this point that the benefit of having a production assistant really paid dividends. Normally, I work alone, so have to spend time setting up the shot and ensuring all the camera settings are as they need to be. But not today.

With script in hand, Nicola took to her new role as though she'd been doing it all her life, whilst Michael put himself in charge of the camera. I'd already done the settings, so all he had to do was actually push the red button. Even so, saying the word "action" gave him a feeling of being in control.

Heading into Brackenfell Woods

With this first filming stop complete and the footage checked, it was time to head up into Brackenfell Woods. This route is along a wide sweeping path which follows the line of an old pack horse route, but that is not the reason it is so wide. Pack horse routes were narrow, often little more than the width of the horse and pack. Similar in fact, to a normal footpath today. This path is considerably more substantial, and was clearly constructed for much wider traffic. The answer to the question of why it is so wide is very simple. What is now Brackenfell Woods was, in Victorian times, a landscaped garden, complete with woodland trails, waterfalls, artificial streams and, to facilitate ease of access, a wide carriageway. This allowed the owners to convey their guests to the top of the garden by carriage from where they could stroll back down, admiring the various features as they went.

The remains of an ornamental pond, dating from the days when Brackenfell woods was a garden.

It was late morning by the time we had finished filming on the path and woodland, and as we proceeded to climb the fell, carrying the camera and tripod in the heat of the day up the steep slope was beginning to take it's toll. Michael decided that his mother and I were just too slow, and raced on ahead, leaving us to struggle on behind. We arrived at Grey Crag to find him sitting smugly on the stone viewpoint admiring the view. There was another filming stop here. Not to show the views from Grey Crag, which are very good by the way, but for me to make a confession on camera. You see, I've been telling tourists little fibs for some while now. It was time to come clean. Progress was then halted by the laughter that followed as Nicola and Michael could hardly believe what I had just come out with. (If you want to know more, you'll have to view the video).

Alcock Tarn, which was formerly known as Buttercrags Tarn

Lunch was taken at Alcock Tarn. Not only was it a chance to enjoy a break, but also a paddle. I may take my video making seriously, but it is also a day out with friends, and there is a certain amount of fun to be had. So having fought against a bracing wind to deliver the story of how this tarn is not all it seems, and having made the occasional error necessitating at least 4 takes, it was time to relax and enjoy the sunshine. All good things come to an end however, and the time to leave came too soon. The second half of the video, and arguably the most demanding, remained to be made.

Leaving Alcock Tarn

Having assistance has great advantages. The shot of me leaving the tarn, taken from one of it's many viewpoints, would not really have been possible had I been working on my own. The time taken to set up such a shot, as well as executing it, would make it prohibitive. But with Nicola and Michael keen to add their input the shot was captured in less than 10 minutes.

Heading off down the northern edge of the fell, a steep and rocky slope.

We didn't return by the outward route. This is a circular walk, and although the descent is steep, and rocky in parts, it is very scenic, with stunning views north west up Easedale and towards Steel Fell.

Thirlmere to Manchester Aqueduct

At the bottom of the slope is the Thirlmere to Manchester aqueduct, the longest gravity-fed aqueduct in the country. It supplies water to the city of Manchester from Thirlmere, which is just 3 miles north of here. It has a fascinating history, yet most people pass by without paying it any attention. Telling the story of the Aqueduct was to make an interesting final segment to the video, but first we had to get down to it. The normal way would be to follow the path to the bottom of the fell, cross the bridge, then turn right to follow the stream up to where the Aqueduct crosses it. But in June 2016 there was no bridge, it having been washed away by the winter floods caused by 'Storm Desmond'. (Incidentally, such was the damage caused by that one storm, with over 350 mm of rain falling in just over 24 hours, that the replacement bridge was a long way down the pecking order when it came to repairing the damage. It was spring 2019 before a new bridge was finally put in place.)

With a camera and tripod to carry, I didn't want to get down to the bottom of the fell only to find no way across. So the decision was made to make our way down through the bracken, which thankfully had yet to reach full height. Michael volunteered to lead the way, acting as some kind of jungle explorer as he hacked his way down the slope. He loved every minute of it.

The top of the Aqueduct turns out to be about a foot deep in rubble from the December flooding

First job when we got to the aqueduct was a check for ticks. It turned out to be a good decision as Nicola had one on her leg. Luckily, it had not sunk its jaws into her, so brushing it off was easy. We also found that she had a nasty case of greenfly! It all added to the fun of the day, but as you all know, it could have been different. Ticks are nasty little creatures and if they burrow into your skin and start to feed on your blood there can be bad health consequences as they can carry Lyme Disease. It is always worth a quick check when you've been through high bracken.

The Aqueduct crossing Greenhead Gill

Telling the story of the Aqueduct and it's construction took longer than I envisaged, mainly because it was a complicated script that contained facts and figures that needed to be delivered correctly. Not only that but I also had a sound problem as the nearby stream was fast flowing and the noise from it threatened to drown out my voice. So I took double shots. One set with pieces to camera, and another set without me in them, or with me just looking at the Aqueduct or into the stream, the idea being that if the pieces to camera were not usable, I would have enough footage to accompany a voice over. Nicola was excellent at this point, ensuring that I got the words right and prompting me when necessary. Michael, meanwhile, continued to make an enthusiastic and first class cameraman.

Time for a paddle

With all footage in the can, it was time for a break, a drink, and another paddle. I always think that on a hot day on the Lakeland fells, a towel and a clean pair of socks is a good thing to pack. The feeling of cool water on the feet is as refreshing as any drink. We sat reviewing some of the footage we had taken, although in truth we had checked it at the time of shooting, but it was a nice way to re-live what had been a lovely day.

The riverside walk in Grasmere

From the bottom of Greenhead Gill we enjoyed a nice stroll back to the main road, then across the fields to Grasmere. I'd decided to finish not by road, but with a walk along the river back to the church yard via the daffodil garden, which turned out to be delightful. Just 4 days later, the video was published on You Tube. Another benefit of having an assistant with me was that I was able to organise the walk and filming in order of shot, which made editing so much easier. Some nice jaunty music rounded the video off nicely, and I have to admit that I was very pleased with the result.